KOREA
By : Don Brosnahan, 2nd Div, Aviation Section
We landed in Korea at 06:30 on 12 Sept 2000.. We were met by an honor guard of 30 of the tallest, sharp looking Korean soldiers I have ever seen. As we walked through the ranks, they stood at Present Arms, it was a very moving welcome. This reception seemed to set the mood for the trip, for wherever we went, the Koreans showed their very sincere appreciation of our wartime experiences.
We then took a flight to Taegu, where we discovered it was a 3 day Korean holiday . The stores were closed and the roads were filled with traffic. Fifty years ago, Taegu was a small village, today it bustles with a population of 3 million. We were met by our chartered buss and quickly learned that the driver was unfamiliar with the streets and he kept getting us lost. We went to Camp Walker and then Camp Henry for lunch.
We were scheduled to visit the Naktong battle sights, however with the traffic jams, and our driver's bewilderment, we were at a standstill worse than any I have ever seen. We finally arrived at one area I recognized, but with all the new buildings and the traffic jam, we could not get close to our objective. Traveling at a snail's pace, we decided to head back to Taegu where we arrived at Camp Henry.
The people there understood what we had a rough day and bent over backwards to make us welcome. The Korean staff insisted on staying on late so we could be fed and the Commanding General (2 Star) was there to greet us. It seems that they researched our records, and they selected Col. Lynn Freeman (no relation to Col. Paul Freeman), Arvil Fields and myself to represent our group. We began by using a saber to cut a huge cake that they had baked in our honor. We were also honored to be recognized by the President of Korea at the Pusan Breakfast Celebration.
The next morning at 06:30 our bus picked us up, I noted we still had the same driver, he immediately drove us to the wrong place, it was getting too funny. I ate breakfast with Col. Freeman and discovered that he was a 2nd Lt. with B Company of the 23rd Infantry and was at Chipyong-ni. As we started for the Palace for a ceremony, a very hard downpour of rain started. When we arrived, we were presented with a bronze disk depicting the 50th Anniversary of the Pusan Breakout. Everything had been set up outdoors at a huge breakout monument. It was very impressive and we 3 representatives were assigned special seats. The U.S. Army got us some light raincoats as everyone was getting so wet. All the seats were set up outdoors, and all of us were sitting in the rain. The Korean Army took pity on us and gave us umbrellas which, as it rained for 5 straight days, stood us good for the rest of the trip.
There was a large projection screen where they recognized the three representatives and displayed our military awards we received in the Korean War. And as the rain poured down, the audience applauded us. There were many speeches, applauding, music played by the Korean Military Band, and from the sky it poured and poured. After tile ceremony we went to Korean Officer's dining hall for lunch. There was a large variety of food including meats, soup, and Kimchi. It seemed like they could not do enough for us.
After lunch, we went indoors to a large decorated hall with a stage. There were more speeches. Then they called we three representatives up to the stage where we set at a table with another Korean war veteran and what must have been well known Korean TV couple, they began a program lasting 20 minutes by asking us questions about our experiences and feelings. I had a difficult time understanding the questioner, but I did my best. We later found out that our TV broadcast was being transmitted all over Korea. When over, we returned to our seats with a very loud and generous applause.
We went back to the dining hall for dinner which was good. After dinner, we went back to the hall were we attended a two and a half hour Korean pageant, There was folk dancing, a fantastic drum show, singing by what seemed to be very well known Korean singers, and other acts, it was very dramatic. The show ended at 22:30 and as we were aware that tomorrow we would begin again by a 0630 bus ride
After a good American breakfast we were on our way for a 4 hour trip to Seoul, it was raining like hell. The traffic seemed to be much better as the holiday period was over. We crossed many flooding rivers, stopped for lunch in Suwon We arrived at Hotel Capital in Seoul (A 4 star Hotel). If I hadn't see this city, I would not believed what the Korean people have done for themselves. It was a destroyed city when I last saw it during the war. I was now looking at was a very modern large city with 15 million people. There were high rise modern buildings, and a subway system that covers miles and miles in all directions. This night we went to the Navy Club for a Chinese dinner. What a club! Dancing girls everywhere, and the GI's there were having one great time. After dinner, we took a walk on one of the main streets, It was about a mile long and filled with very kind of shop you could imagine. I did not purchase anything and told myself I would do that later, but that didn't happen.
On Friday, we were up at 06:00 It is still raining, and there is a report that a typhoon is headed our way. We went to Camp Casey where the 2nd Division HQ. is located. We went to Panmunjom and the "Freedom Bridge" along the DMZ. There are a number of monuments here and it is hard to realize that almost 50 years ago our POWs came over that bridge on their way home. Back on the road again along the DMZ. There are barbed wire security fences with armed guard posts all across Korea. Leaving the DMZ (it is raining very hard) we return to Camp Casey where the 2nd Division put on all kinds of displays to show us their modern weapons and equipment, but because of the weather, they can not put on their live ammo demonstration. Instead, they fed us a very good lunch. Sitting among the young professional soldiers while we ate, I became favorably impressed with the morale and caliber of our current Arm.
After lunch, we went to the large PX to do some shopping, I again felt I could do that later, but that never happened. By 15:00 we were on our way to Camp Red Cloud and their 2nd Division Museum. It was very interesting and well done. We went to dinner at Mitchell Hall, named after Chief Red Cloud. We had a great dinner. A 2nd Division Colonel came and expressed the regrets that the Commanding General was not able to be there, and then passed out the CG's metal coins to each of us. After dinner, we were entertained by a soldiers chorus group (male and female). They were so good, I was sorry I did not bring a recorder.
On Saturday we were off to Chipyongni and the twin tunnels. During the ride, the guide told us that there were 15 million cars in Korea. Arrived at Chipyon-ni around 10:30. It is still raining. There was a plaque describing the military action leading up a flight of stone steps to the monument. I took an empty can and put the names of Andy Reyna's tank crew -- Ralph Hall, Bob Lindsey, Charles Prince, Bob Purteest and Doyal Smith in it, closed the lid and buried it behind the monument. Col. Freeman and I were the only Chipyon-Ni survivors in our group. Then we went to the Twin-Tunnels where another horrific battle occurred. The French Battalion and the 23rd Infantry together stopped 5 Chinese Divisions from taking this important road and rail transportation hub. The Chinese went no further, and we began the UN's push to the north. An important turning point of the war. We were scheduled to go to another monument, but because of the rain and bad roads it was cancelled.
We now are on our way to the Korean War Museum. We stopped at Hong-yi Chaun-yi where Al Seyther lost his company. Al explained how the ROK forces broke and left his unit exposed, he was captured, but later managed to escape. Our tour leader noted that we were too late to see the museum so we opted to go back to the hotel as we had to get ready for dinner.
This is the first time we dressed up, for we will attend a dinner where we were told we will be presented with a Korean Medal. We got to the Korean Navel League building where they put on a first class dinner for us. Speeches of appreciation were made, we were served a prime rib dinner with all the trimmings, and active duty military personnel were also at each table. Our table drew a pretty 25 year old Navy Enlisted woman, who had served years as a 2nd Class Radioman and had finished her first college degree. After dinner, they presented us with a special appreciation medal on a red-white-blue ribbon, which hung around our necks. They did not have the medals we expected as it was explained our paper work for the award was received too late to get approval. We went back to the hotel to pack for the trip home tomorrow.
Sunday Morning - the day we leave - wouldn't you know, the sun was shining brightly through my window. I had a very bad night sleep and I apparently developed a cold and my throat hurt.
Epilogue: This trip brought back some memories. By some strange circumstances, I got involved in the battle of Chipyong-ni. Colonel Paul Freeman, the commander of the 23rd Infantry Regiment was wounded and had been ordered out of the combat zone. One of our light planes was sent to get him out, however on landing the plane in the battle area, the plane hit a crater in the runway and blew a tire. I heard that it was decided to send a second plane and I was asked if I thought I could repair the downed plane, and considering the circumstances would I be willing to go. I told them I would give it a try and off we went. Coming in from the air, we could see the tremendous odds the 23rd Infantry were facing. On landing, I discovered that not only was the tire blown, but also the brake line had been torn out. By this time, the Chinese were trying to take out the plane with mortar fire. I moved the plane several times while getting the mortar fire and now small arms fire. I managed to get a tire on the plane but could do nothing about the brakes. I checked the runway for craters and debris from the Mortars. I filled in the craters where I could and made sure a clear path was available.
Captain Thompson, the pilot, got in the plane and attempted to take off, but he could not get enough speed to take off. The plane kept pulling to one side and the pilot could not keep it going straight as we did not have any brakes. We ended up pulling off the landing strip. I told the Captain that I had an idea as to get him out of there, but we had to lighten the load by leaving me behind. I had recalled that I had done some carrier duty while I was in the Marines and recalled how the pilots would rev up their engines to maximum RPM before they were let go and take off in a very short distance. He went along with the plan. I got the plane to the end of the strip heading into the wind. I found some soldiers who were along the strip and told them what I wanted them to do. I stationed two men at the struts that hold the wings on. I told them to hold back until 1 gave them the signal to let go.
They must let go at the same time. Capt. Thompson revved up the engine, the tail was lifting off the ground (which was what we wanted) when I signaled the men to let go. The pilot took off, but he started drifting off a little and was headed right for a truck. Just about time he was airborne, he was able to take off right over the tops of the truck, up, up, up and away. What a relief, he made it. I didn't get a chance to see him for several days.
The 23rd Infantry had a new recruit. First I stayed with a mortar company that took me in. Then I went with some Frenchmen who gave me a rifle and a home until the siege was broke by the arrival of a US tank outfit which had broke through. I don't remember today which mortar outfit I was with or the names of any of the Frenchmen -- but -- THEY GAVE ME A HOME WHEN I NEEDED ONE. I thank them both with all my heart.
End
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